August 2011 update

 I used an old baking dish to form the recess in the firewall so that a big block will fit with distributor clearance...however, I now also have to fit a toeboard to the firewall, which will also give the extra clearance needed for the top outer bellhousing bolts! The lower 2/12" of the recess has to be filled, as I have decided to push gauges thru from inside....

 No more baked potato now...the tray is in...I am going to cover this and mount my fuse panel in the upper area, and cut two holes in the lower parts for my volts and oil pressure gauges...I pre drilled and welded an angle to the rhs cross brace, just in case I need some mounting holes.

 All the rear bracing is just about done, I made some hinges that work just fine, the cross brace was mounted to the rear so that my seat can slide back under the back of the body for more room. Also, I might need to get a roll cage in here somewhere, so now I have some room to work it in. (can't stop an old drag racer from havin' fun, can you!)

 Side bracing is almost finished, but I think I will do a full wrap around 3/4 rhs from one side to other, welding to the sides and centre cross brace...that should keep it rigid!..I am playing with a basic small door opening mechanism..this is version 1........probably 10 more before I figure out what and where I want it!

 I shed a teardrop when I saw this finished...haha.I get to use my old number plates again.....looks traditional, with the model A boot lock!...since these photos, I have also got the cowl vent in and working, and the bracing under the headlight posts, and couldn't help but cut the holes and put the gauges in.....must thank Oz Rods for all the help with the parts this thing is consuming...

I folded up a metal tray that will eventually be glassed in, and will catch any water in the boot area, just have to figure some sort of drain of this to the underneath.....the chalk mark shows where the glass floor has to be cut out and lifted to give the 9" some clearance. I haven't c nothed it yet, and it only just clears now...I also have to cut a relief in the glass above the frame, as the TAC now require a 500mm x 10mm thick flat strap to be welded on top of the frame over the c'd section........